Simple pleasures of an unplanned trip

There is always a comfort level in planning a trip - its like a bank security.You know where you are headed and some research always helps in understanding the destination better. But there is a thrill in the unknown - in not knowing where you are headed, in making decisions on the spur of the moment and landing in a place and making plans on the go.

And that is when you realize that the journey is the destination - the essence of the trip lies in those million chai stops, in those smiles of the kids who wave good byes,in those cuddled pups who lie in the middle of the road and refuse to move, in a sudden downpour that hits your window pane that your visibility is so low, in watching birds and butterflies fluttering around, in watching the sun light up the moss on the trees ,in gazing at a dense canopy of deciduous and evergreen forests, in washing your face and feet at a small gushing stream, in watching the outline of a 1000 year old temple from the distance, gracing the banks of a lake, infollowing the speed of a water snake in the lake and sometimes, in just doing and thinking nothing at all ...

We attempted a bit of this over the weekend and it was entirely unplanned

The travel itch had hit the husband early last week as the noise levels  reached an all time high during Deepavali.He suggested a trip to Sringeri/Agumbe over the weekend and I was too bogged down with work to make any plans.He checked the buses and they were running full. And then on late Friday evening,we thought of Masinagudi but accomodation wasnt available. So, we just crashed that night and decided to take a call on Saturday morning .

We woke up early and decided on a random impulse to hit the road. And I tweeted -"Ok so we have got into our car with no idea where we are headed - destination, direction,duration unknown-this is wanderlust.
"I had my purse, my mobile ,my sunscreen and my BP tablet with me in my camera bag and my husband, his purse and mobile .Over breakfast at the Malleswaram Maiyyas, we decided on an impulse to head to Chitradurga as I have been keen on seeing the fort . and so,we took the road towards Tumkur road, but almost veered of course at the Mysore Road deviation, planning Srirangapatna , Bandipur, Gopalswamy betta instead. We deliberated for a while on the road, but our reflexes were too slow and the car moved ahead.

We crossed Nelamangala and then bypassed Tumkur, but a call from a friend changed the course of our journey.  They agreed to join but were not keen on Chitradurga..so with no destination in our mind, we returned to Nelamangala and agreed to meet them at Sollur , near Kunigal,where he got permission to park his car at a petrol pump for a night.

And then we discussed options - Hassan, Chikmagalur, Hanbal-Saklespur, Belur, Coorg or even a detour to Mysore. A quick lunch in  Hassan and I was off to buy clothes and some toiletries and we continued exploring- Shettihalli , a deserted village to see the ruins of a Gothic Church floating in the waters -it was my third visit there and then finally the night sky brought our journey to a halt. Saklespur it was and with some help from uncle, managed a cheap and cheerful room in the Cosmopolitan Club and then we embarked on our journey the next day - Kukke Subramanya , Tipu's Mansirabad Fort and a last minute addition Doddagaddavalli - to see a 1000 year old Hoysala temple in a humble little village . It was my nth visit to Doddagaddavalli and yet everytime I see something new there - this time, it was a water snake speeding up under water in a lake,rearing its head now and then.

The most hilarious part of the trip was at lunch in Saklepur yesterday. The eatery was crowded and we were waiting for a table to be cleared when a woman was grinning at me and so did a friend. I turned back to see another lady wearing exactly the same kurta I had picked up at Hassan the previous afternoon. It so happened that she had landed in town late night at 11 and had urgently picked up a kurta in the morning too..talking about coincidences, I say ... 

This diary is just a record of the places we stopped by as the trip was about the journey and the unplanned part of it. A lack of agenda gave me a sense of liberation, an excitement for the unknown and the flexibility to take things as they come and an ability to adapt and accept whatever comes your way.  Next time, we plan to do away with the car and take a bus .My experiment would be to go to the busstand and decide on the destination on the spur of the moment or take the first bus that comes my way...And yes, the journey will be my destination


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Skywatch Friday - A fairy tale castle in Ireland

In the county of Tipperary is an ancient heritage town with an imposing castle that looks down the quaint streets . We are in Cahir, based on the Irish word � cathir � or stone fort which predated the current castle built in the 13^thcentury .Located on the banks of the river Suir,this castle is open to the public and offers some great views of the town . 


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Happy Deepavali folks

Deepavali Greetings from Corbett..Let there be light !

Skywatch - A bright sunny day and the London Eye

One of the most beautiful days in London with a lovely blue sky . To see more beautiful skies visit Skywatch

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Five reasons to visit Hong Kong and Macau

Think Hong Kong and Macau and the images that flash in your mind are the glittering lights of an expansive skyline, the lure of the casinos , never ending shopping markets, laser shows  and tourist attractions like Disneyland and Oceanworld.

However I was in for a surprise when I visited these island states. I had imagined a bustling dynamic financial capital with all the trappings of a modern city. And yet, as I walked around it, I discovered a quaint town with clusters of islands and peninsulas, retaining a charm of its own. The city-state as it is often referred to, was a perfect m�lange of the east and west, a pot pourri of tourist attractions and hidden spots and would often transform itself into small fishing villages with floating markets .

There are many reasons why one would visit these two Chinese territories , but here are my recommendations

1.Tian Tan Buddha statue in Lantau Island .

Nestled in one of the most beautiful and largest islands of Hong Kong is a 34 metres tall Big Buddha in bronze, smiling at the vast landscape around the island. A cable car ride above the seas take you towards the Ngong Ping Plateau of the Lantau Island , where you can get a glimpse of the Buddha from the sky. Climbing more than 260 steps to reach the statue may be an uphill task, but it is worth the effort .It is also believed to house one of the relics of Gautama Buddha. The century old Po Lin Monastery located near the statue is dedicated to the three forms of Buddha � the present, the past and the future.

However the island itself is a showstopper. Ringed in by mountains, it is located at the mouth of the Pearl River and was once part of the ancient trade routes . Colonised by both the Portuguese and the British, Tai Han Shan as it was earlier known as was once the haunt of pirates and is today filled with forts and fishing villages.

2. Stanley Market

The montage of shops selling souvenirs, paintings, artifacts, silks and all sorts of curios in tiny lanes of this historic town lure many tourists here .But there is more to Stanley than just its markets . The beaches here are bustling with water sports and  the entire waterfront is dotted with restaurants and bars. Walk around the town and you would hear stories of war or local legends of pirates .

My personal favourite is the quiet 18^th century temple , believed to be the oldest temple in Hong Kong, dedicated to Tin Hau , the Queen of Heaven  and the Goddess of the Sea. While the official board outside the temple says that it is built by �the sea faring people of Stanley  � locals tell you that it is attributed to a notorious pirate, Cheung Po Tsai . As you enter the temple, you notice a rather unusual display � a glass frame mounted with the skin of a dead tiger . A small note says that the tiger was shot by an Indian policeman, Mr. Rur Singh  in front of Stanley Police Station way back in 1942.

3.The Victorial Peak

Taking a tram right up to the Peak of  Hong Kong is a great way of exploring the heights of the island. The funicular tramway that started way back in the 19^th century goes all the way up 1200 feet and very often you would find the skyscrapers leaning against you as you journey uphill. The distance is about a kilometer and a half as it climbs up 45* from Central District to The Peak. From the Peak Tower Sky Terrace, you can see a 360*  view of Hong Kong - the glittering skyline, the harbour lights , the mountains and the plateaus . I personally prefer the night view to the day, but then nothing stops you from going there twice.

The Peak itself is filled with historic tales and it was believed to be a 19^th century signaling post for cargo ships that entered the port. The rich and famous who lived there used to be carried uphill through sedan chairs and palanquins until the tramway opened up in the 19^thcentury. It is today a tourist attraction with shops, restaurants , galleries and museums vying for space.

4.The A-Ma temple at Macau

As you take the ferry to Macau from Hong Kong, the casinos are the first to beckon you. However , a visit to old Macau is highly recommended. The 15^thcentury A-Ma temple which lent its name to Macau, built high up on a cliff is a wonderful way to begin your journey . Dedicated to the Goddess of the Seafarers and Fishermen, Matsu or Mazu, the shrine offers you beautiful views of the sea and its just peaceful to sit here and watch the ships go by..

When the Portuguese landed here, they had no idea about the fishing hamlet. Locals told them the place was called �MaaGok� referring to the A-Ma temple and the name remains till date. The temple is rather huge with several pavilions and halls  and is filled with lores and legends .

5. The Ruins of St Paul�s

You do not go to Macau looking for a bit of Europe there. But then, old Macau which was once a Portuguese colony is rather reminiscent of the early 16^thcentury. The World UNESCO site - Historic Centre of Macau includes the imposing Ruins of St Paul. A college and a cathedral was built here in the 16^thcentury and was later destroyed by a fire .

The imposing fa�ade with intricate carvings is a fusion of Jesuit and Oriental art, such as the sculpture of a woman stepping on a seven headed hydra ,described in Chinese as a dragon. One can climb the staircase leading to the top of fa�ade to see more images carved on it. While many tourists still throw coins from top for luck, several flock to the Senado Square and the Fortress located close by.

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Where are you headed this winter ?

So here I am back from the UK tour , sitting on my bed and typing this post. Another three months for the year to end , but then winters are great time to travel. Be it birding or wildlife, heritage or festivities, India or abroad , this is the travel season. I am off to Madras for a day and then Corbett next week with Club Mahindra and then my travel diary looks rather empty.

 I have hardly planned any trip so far, but my head is swimming with ideas and I need to just sit still for a while and wait for the clarity to emerge.Almost all the trips that I have done this year have been unplanned and sudden ;

Wishfully thinking, I would like to add a bit of North East into my plans; or maybe Kutch or probably Madhya Pradesh. I would love to do a bit of Tamil Nadu too .And a few weekend getaways as well.What are your plans for winter  ? Do share your wishlist and recommendations as well.

I also have a few writing assignments to complete and so just caught up in this mad rush called life. So, while I collect my thoughts together and plan for the last few trips of 2011, I am leaving  you with a couple of images of the estuary in Poompuhar where the Cauvery joins the Bay of Bengal. Ive just finished writing my column , Inside Story on this historic yet forgotten ancient port town of the Cholas - most of it lies submerged somewhere in the oceans . The column  was published today in The Hindu Metro Plus

It is a hot and a humid afternoon and I am hardly surprised with the weather . I have been driving down coastal Tamil Nadu over the last few days and the sun has been rather merciless, with an occasional breeze attempting to lower the temperatures. Fishing hamlets, forgotten ports, erstwhile colonies and temple towns fill my travel diary as I head towards a sea side town, that was believed to have been swallowed by a tsunami several centuries ago.

.My destination is a port that finds mention in the ancient Tamil and Buddhist literature and in the works of international travelers and historians like Ptolemy and Pliny. Mystery shrouds this old forgotten port as it is surrounded by legends .Discovering its history is like putting together the pieces of a jig saw puzzle together .The clues are largely the hyperbolic descriptions of the town from ancient poems like Pattinappalai and epics like Silappadikaram , inscriptions from temples and from excavations held under water and on land.

I am referring to the port capital of the Cholas - Puhar or Kaveripoompattinam, known today as Poompuhar, associated largely with the reign of Karaikal Chola and which comes alive in the verses of Pattinappalai , a literary work of the Sangam Age. Images of  huge ships docking in the sea bringing in merchandise from distant shores  to mansions built by foreign merchants are painted vividly in this poem. The epic, Silappadikaram recreates the ancient town with its markets , mansions, gardens and palaces. The port was called Maruvurpakkam , inhabited by traders, fishermen and foreign merchants while Pattinapakkam , with its palaces and gardens was the home of the royalty.

And yet as you drive through the chaos and clutter of the new town Poompuhar, you can hardly see any trace of the ancient capital  We cross the excavations of Pallaveshwaram, where we are told that the ruins of an old Buddhist monastery was said to have been unearthed. The Buddhist literary work, Manimekalai speaks of the Buddhist influence in the town, while records its destruction by a tsunami.

�There is nothing really here, can we go back ? � asks my hungry driver as I tell him to head towards the sea. There is one site that still remains till date . Puhar am told refers to the mouth of the river and the ancient town was apparently located at the estuary of the River Cauvery where it joins the Bay of Bengal. I walk in the heat to see the magical moment.

An old lighthouse watches over the sea . Running parallel to the sea and separated by a patch of black sands is the river Cauvery curving towards the sea .  A small stream that gets narrower as it meanders its way to its destination. A couple of fishermen are washing their boats. The sands meanwhile dramatically changes colour from black to almost white as the waves of the sea welcomes the river into its folds . It is a surreal setting . The sea curves and the river arches and they embrace as the waters flow . A small temple overlooks the estuary. An old lady walks away, as a lone fisherman wades through the estuary and crosses over to the shore. � Super stills madam �he says and smiles at me as I photograph the confluence .

It is hard to imagine that the tame sea would have ruthlessly devoured a town centuries ago. It is even harder to imagine the busy port painted by the literary works with merchants, weavers, jewelers ,potters all hosting day and night markets lies somewhere in the ocean depths. As I leave, I take a last look at the river and sea merging quietly, wondering if they have written a watery .epitaph for Puhar.

My affair with The Big Cities

There was a time when I hated big cities and all that I associated with  them was noise, the clutter, the pageantry and hype . I would often get lost there.Given a chance, I preferred wilds or the offbeat , rustic, charming towns or heritage sites in ruins. But of late , I seem to be lured by these big cities..

Maybe its the energy, the sights and sounds or just the romantic past tucked away in them, but certainly my fascination for these sprawling metropolises seems to grow. I've always loved Bombay and yes, Delhi too. And Chennai, Bangalore and Hyderabad.

 People in NYC watching a street performance

In the international scene, New York and London  fascinates me . And Rome, SFO, Zurich, Dublin, Munich. I enjoy Singapore and Hong Kong and my memories of Melbourne and Sydney, though very old now, still linger. Yes, there are museums , palaces, castles and several sightseeing spots ; but that's not all. Although all these cities are different from each other as chalk and cheese, there seems to be certain reasons why they lure me .

The energy - It  radiates in your mind as you walk down the roads, absorbing the sights and sounds. Whether its India or abroad, there is so much life everywhere . The trains or the tubes - the city virtually moves to their rhythm.And I am not just referring to the nightlife. Walk on the streets, go to a cafe, go shopping or sightseeing, the energy seeps into you and how !

 Times Square in Hong Kong

The streets - They are the living spaces and they are so vibrant. There is so much colour everywhere. You just have to walk down the streets of a city to discover it. Little unknown cafes to bookshops to mega malls and up scale restaurants, to curious signboards and billboards to street performances .. the streets symbolise the city. I hate coach tours for the simple reason you can never feel the pulse of the city. Your feet may get swollen, but you never know what you discover. All those days in NYC, I would just sit in a cafe at Manhattan and see life unfold around me.

 NYC - Times Square

Events - Watch out for the live shows or the musicals or the plays . Some of them maybe free or you may get a discount somewhere. And its worth every penny as you bring back an experience that is unique to the place.

 The Lion King Show in Lycium, London

Nightlife - Why would anyone visit any of the big cities and not capture an essence of its nightlife ? So,while you are looking for a " happenning " place, you may also find some taverns and pubs which have either a lot of history or are quaint and yet full of life. Seek them out. I love Clarke Quay for instance in Singapore and we went to some real old pubs in London which was so lively and fun and the pubs in Dublin which absolutely rocked with some great Irish music

 In a bar in Dublin

The city within the city - So, you come to every city with a list of sightseeing attractions and monuments that you must see and do .But here is a city often hidden beyond the city we now . I went on the London walks last week, where we saw the London of Dickens and Shakespeare ; we also did  see the old London wall. There are many Delhis within Delhi today and Chennai will take you to the fishing hamlet that was once Madras, the settlement formed by the British East India Company. Everything is not just about history - there is art, architecture, literature that forms the cultural ethos of the city. Soak into it !

 Outside Westminister tube station in  London

I can think of many more reasons , but these are the five that comes to my mind. What about you guys ? Do you like big cities and why ?Would love to hear from you

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