Halloween Greetings from the streets of Mussorie

With so many expats and foreign tourists in Mussoorie and around, I could see every shop in the Mall area selling masks for Halloween..

Souvenirs from Malaysia

My house is forever filled with souvenirs that I could probably run a shop. I am a collector and although I have a craze for trinkets, I would like to bring home with me something which reminds me of a country. Standing on my table is a tiny elephant with pink feet leaning against a coconut tree with its feet up. Aptly titled Rest and Relaxation, these souvenirs are one of the oldest in my collection and they were the first that I picked up from Royal Selangor. Made out of an alloy of tin, aluminium and copper called pewter, these figurines and beer mugs are rather exclusive to this part of the country.

Photo credit � Leo Fung, Creative Commons, Flickr
I picked up several others but my favourites include a beer mug which shows vignettes of Malaysia and a beautifully carved plate . Although souvenirs made of pewter are available almost everywhere, I would recommend a visit to Royal Selangor.The largest manufacturer of pewter products , Royal Selangor�s tryst with the alloy goes back to the 19th century .You can pick your choice from photo frames to tea sets, from souvenirs to figurines. The range and variety of tankards here is rather amazing. I am told that Royal Selangor actually created the world�s largest tankard made of pewter which stands at a height of almost 2 metres and has a capacity of more than 2.5 litres. Mine however is just a simple mug , but nevertheless cheers to you and hope you bring home your own little pewter souvenir . 

Alive is Awesome�Experiences in Goa

I have always said that Goa is not a destination , but an experience . It is a state of mind . I almost make an annual pilgrimage to Goa and I have had my share of �alive is awesome � experiences, which have been both touristy and offbeat.
1. Going bananas in Goa
Water scooter, para sailing, banana boats � Goa has been THE destination for water sports in India. It is not just the adventure activities, but there is something about the skies and the seas on this coast. I remember my first para sailing experience . I felt a strange sensation in the stomach as I was lifted above the shores and I took in the aerial view of the sea.

The ships looked dwarfed, the people seemed like Lilliputans. There was a sense of freedom as the winds would hit my face and blow me away. I held on to the ropes rather tightly and within seconds it seemed to be all over.  The water scooter has always been a perennial favourite, but trying the banana boat was rather an exhilarating experince . We would be thrown into the water several times and each time, I would come bobbing up to the shore grinning ear to ear

2. Crossing rivers and forests
They say the best views of the Dudhsagar Falls can be seen from the train which slows down as the milky white cascade deafens your ears and fills your vision . However, I believe that the journey is the destination. Driving to the falls was in itself an adventure . The jeep took us through the dense jungles of the Mollem National Park , where we crossed two full bodied rivers with no bridges or roads built on them. And while we drove on the bumpy almost non existent mud roads ,the jeep suddenly veered into a detour as we saw a board, that said � Devil�s Canyon. � We encountered a turbulent river flowing in a deep gorge with various rock faces staring right at us . The silence was eerie . There was not even a monkey around .

We continued our journey until we reached the waterfalls. And the setting looked out of the world though. A dense forest hemmed in with rocks while little streams and rivulets flowed around them . Tiny wooden bridges sprouted in the middle of nowhere . The trails led me towards one of the most spectacular water falls that I had ever seen in India. A railway line cut in the middle of the cascading waters as the roar of the falls silenced that of the moving train. This is where the Mandovi plunges to the depths , from a height of 600 metres, forming a milky cascade on the Karnataka �Goa border. The entire scene was a dramatic riot of colours. Bare bodied men and women were swimming around in a massive pool of blue green waters formed by the creamy white foam. We jumped in, letting the waters soothe us after our rather adventurous journey.

3.Birding in Zuari
There is nothing more mystical and beautiful than watching dawn break on a river bed. We drove through the dense forests at 4 am and watched the silhouettes of mountains give us company on our journey. As the winds gently caressed the waters, forming ripples, the river came alive and so did we. It was the wee hours of the morning, but I had never felt so awake before in my life. The birds perched on the nets left behind by the fishermen, as the boatman took us on a cruise on the river . The golden light of the sun stroked the river and we basked in the morning glow. As we sighted rare species of birds , I realized that you do not always have to experience high energy activities to get a sense of adventure. In that beautiful morning,watching a vibrant black capped kingfisher, showing off its shiny purple coat, I experienced one of those rare �alive is awesome� experiences

On the beaches of Penang in Malaysia

My first visit to Penang was almost 20 years ago, when I was an over-awed teenager, looking at the international shores with wide open eyes. After the heritage tour of George Town was over, I went to the beach and it was the first time that I explored water sports. One of my favourites then was the water scooter � a novelty at that time. I did not know swimming, but that did not deter me from heading out into the sea. I took the instructor along with me and we went visiting some lesser known fishing hamlets and he took me on a journey into an unexplored Malaysia. It was probably one of my first ever experiences of solo travel and I returned to see some worried faces on the beach, looking for me. Although the memory is pretty hazy, one of the first things that struck me is how safe Malaysia is as a destination. The instructor told me that I rode the scooter on a reckless speed, but he was around to ensure that I returned safe and sound. Many trips have been made in the last twenty years, but the first trip is always special .

Penang today offers several water sports activities for the adventurous traveller. There is snorkelling, parasailing among other activities and if you would like to chill and relax, then you must visit a fish spa. The sandy beaches are idyllic spots to just walk around or to soak in the atmosphere as some of the hamlets are less touristy and absolutely quiet. Amongst the beaches, visit Tanjung Bungah, Batu Ferringhi and Teluk Bahang.

The force of the cascades - Feeling Alive is Awesome

There can be no other feeling more wonderful than dipping your feet in cold , running water and feeling the spray on your face as the cascades knock you down with force . Try bathing in a waterfall , when the rocks are slippery and the water almost lures you to a different world. There is nothing more exciting and energising in life .  You throw your hands in gay abandon and let yourself be purged by the milky white waters rushing through the cliffs in mountains and descending downwards to join a wayward river.

My earliest memory is a bath in the Courtrallam Falls, often referred to as the Spa of South India. With the Western Ghats bordering it, the mist of Agasthiyamalai in the background, the waters of Courtrallam is formed through several rivers that have their source up in the hills and they bring down with them medicinal properties. There are nine waterfalls in all here, but the three main ones are the Old Coutrallam, the Five Falls and the Main Falls. I was barely a child when I went to Courtallam as our native village is down South in Tirunelveli, barely an hour away .

During my recent visit, I drove down to another beautiful falls, called Manimuthar, an absolutely stunning scenic spot, lost to man . A few monkeys and some locals join me as I let the waters rejuvenate me .

Waterfalls either come with a fancy name or they do not have a name at all. In Kodaikanal, the tourists are familiar with Silver Cascade, but deep inside the mountains is a fall that has taken the world of advertising by storm. This waterfall was one of the earliest to be branded and we walked through rain and hail to experience the force of the cascades.

Recently I visited Goa and saw an entirely different side to the beach country. Goa is not just a destination � it is a state of mind. I travelled into the deep forests in Goa and hiked around and came upon this cascade of waters. Not all waterfalls are famous or have a name, but sometimes its the experience that you remember. We spotted snakes and birds and listened to the hooves of gaurs who thumped around the rocks as they left. In Mollem, we crossed two rivers and a wildlife sanctuary and climbed up rocks to see the milky white Dudhsagar Falls , but that will soon be another post.

One of the most gorgeous waterfalls  down South is the Athirampally Falls bordering Kerala and Tamil Nadu. The mist, the spray, the foam, the rainforests, the mountains in the background � Athirampally is absolutely gorgeous as she takes a fall into the valley below. We hiked up and crossed the border and saw the Vazhachal Falls gently tumbling down the rocks.

And finally the Chitrakoot Waterfalls in Chhattisgarh. Now, this is an experience I can never forget. The fury of the cascading waters was echoing in our ears as we woke up to see the massive waterfalls greet us from our rooms.

We took a boat and went right below the massive waterfalls and let ourselves be completely drenched . The spray hit us, the foam blinded us and the sound was absolutely deafening, but what an experience ! Something that needs to be soaked in.

More alive is awesome experiences include Shimsha in Karnataka ( I am yet to visit Jog), the Corbett Falls up north and of course, the Hogenakkal Falls in Tamil Nadu . 

And another Dussehra /Navratri Golu ends

My favourite festival is the Navratri Golu or Dussehra and its the time that I am the most sociable and don the role of a hostess. The last ten days have been the busiest phase and I have had friends and family visit me virtually everyday. It started with me walking down North Mada Street in Mylapore, Madras (Chennai) with my mother for a couple of hours and picking up seven bags of golu bommais or dolls from all over the country.


The theme was Krishna and I had collected almost ten stories of Krishna � from his childhood Leela to the Mahabharatha.

These are some of the stories from my Krishna collection

Kalingavadanam � Krishna defeating the poisonous snake Kalinga that was spreading venom in the Yamuna. Running away from Garuda, Kalinga made Vrindavan his home, knowing only too well that Garuda could not come here. Krishna jumped into the river while playing and the huge snake wrapped itself around his body. He immediately subdued the snake by dancing on its head, crushing it with his weight. The snake, recognising the power of Krishna agreed to leave to its original home, Ramanaka Dwipa, which some people refer to as Fiji .

Govardhanagiri � The symbolic lifting of the Govardhan Giri or hillock by Krishna refers to his defeating the ego and wrath of Indra, the King of the Devas and the Lord of rains . Krishna requested the villagers to stop special rituals for Indra who in turn flooded the entire village. Krishna lifted the mountain with his little finger, protecting the entire village from the rains.

Ural Krishna � Yashoda , angry with Krishna tied him up to a grinding stone . The boy effortlessly dragged himself towards the trees in the courtyard , while the grindstone gets stuck in the gap between two trees. He strikes down the trees and releases Nalakubera and Manigreeva, the sons of Kubera who were cursed by Narada.

Andaal singing Thiruppavai � Andaal or Kodhai as she was called was so devoted to Lord Vishnu that she wanted to marry him. She offered garlands to the Lord only after wearing it first herself to see if it was suitable for him. In her fifteen years of life, Andaal composed the Thiruppavai in praise of Krishna , where she picturises herself as a Gopika.

The collection further increased with a gift from my mother � a beautiful idol of Sringeri Sharada and I picked up a Durga idol from Mysore, besides a few more dolls from Malleswaram in Bangalore.

The golu will be dismantled tomorrow and all the dolls will be packed for next year. As per tradition, one of them is already lying asleep, signifying the end of the festival.

For details on Golu, you can read my previous blog post, Come Home to my Golu and my article in Yahoo . I also made a quick visit to Mysore and here is my diary portrayed in vignettes. I leave you with a video of a concert in Mysore, during the Dussehra festivities.

A concert in Mysore

The lights of Mysore � Happy Dussehra

 

Feeling Alive and Awesome in Londa

Ever wondered what it is like to cross a gushing stream , to jump into a natural jacuzzi, to dip your head in the cascading flow of waters and feel the rush of a waterfall splashing water all over your face ? If you have not experienced anything like that, then I suggest that you experience the natural energy of the River Kali . My story however starts from an obscure railway station.

� Bhaiyya, do dena aur ek mirchi bhi.. Garam hai na?�

A couple of dogs watch us as we devour the vada pavs. The pavs are a bit cold , but soft .As we bite into them, the hot vadas and the spicy mirchis bring tears to our eyes.

Raju smiles as he throws a few crumbs to the dogs . He says he always finds it amusing to find � sheherwale� going gaga over a simple dish like vada pav . We tell him that simplicity is often something that we dont find in our cities .

The Rani Chennamma express snakes its way out of the Londa station . The lone vada pav stall in the corner is probably the only sign of life in this otherwise quaint railway station. As for Raju, the day starts sometime as early as 6.30 am, an hour before our train lands.It is an important junction, he explains, for passengers going to Belgaum, Goa, Karwar or Hubli and Bangalore and he does brisk business .

I look around and take in the early morning sights of this � important junction� that looks quite lost to civilisation. The station is very clean and quiet. Some people are sitting on the benches reading the papers. Others seem to catching up on local gossip. Very few seem to be waiting for trains .The dogs stretch and go to sleep. We leave as more passengers crowd around Raju�s stall.

 

Londa is not our destination, but a transit point.We are headed to the haunt of the River Kali which has its source in the Western Ghats and flows through lush greenery before emptying herself into the Arabian Sea . Besides Goa and Karwar , birding and wildlife enthusiasts travel to Ganeshkudi and Dandeli to spot rare species of fauna. This is also the home of the hornbill and we had booked ourselves in a private resort named after the bird itself

The open jeep lets the sun�s rays caress us as we cross more villages interuppted by stretches of forest lands. Ganeshkudi ,a place on every birdwatcher�s map is the closest point to our resort. A vast expanse of blue make us pause on our journey as the driver stops by at the Supa Dam built on the backwaters of the river Kali . We could camp here in the night if we liked, he said and the resort would make all the arrangements .We put it down in our agenda and reach our destination , just as a hornbill flies over our head inviting us.

Nestled on the banks of the River Kali is a small hamlet near Ganeshkudi where hardly 60 people live and two private resorts � Hornbill River Resort and Bison River Resort cater to the tourists here. The Jungle Lodges properties at Dandeli and Ganeshkudi is a stone�s throw away . This is a border town and you find a disaspora of people here from Maharashtra, Karnataka and Goa speaking a mishmash of all languages . The Marathi influence is unmistakable, right from the accent to the poha we ate .

�Would you like to go fishing or to the island ?� We gaze at the deep green Kali river almost flowing as a private pool in the backyard of the resort. A branch curves down and stretches forward to stroke the waters. A line of trees border the river on the other bank . A kingfisher scoops down as a few pond herons watch. The waters lull us for a moment and we are in no mood to take a quick decision .

A loud screech and we rush for the binoculars to see the hornbills atop the tree . � Last January, we counted up to 70 at the same time,� says Umesh, the owner, offering to take us to the other bank by road. We cut through the vegetation and some fields and walk through the trees and see them all through the binoculars � malabar pied hornbills, indian grey hornbill and even a couple of great hornbills in flight.

�Are they all migratory birds ?� I ask, in complete ignorance.� No, for most species, this is home and they are resident birds� explains Umesh saying that the season to catch them will be between November to March. Today unfortunately the birds are preys to poachers who kill them for their long curved beaks and casques.

Time flows as we swim , fish and then row over to the island. � A natural Jacuzzi,� read the itinerary . We trek through the uninhabited island , cross the river and climb rocks until we reach the spot. It did look like a natural Jacuzzi . Pools of water around rocks are formed as the river gushes with force and create a miniature waterfall . The force is overpowering as we feel the might of the river flowing over us. The currents are strong and we feel humbled and exhilarated at the same time. The adrenalin starts flowing again as we see a group of rafters cascading under the rapids and cutting through the water currents.

We plunge into the water too and allow ourselves to be carried away and purged by the river. We learn to manoeuvre and cut through the currents . The rapids take us by surprise as we see the river change her moods and colours .She takes us in her lap and then throws us to her depths and bring us back to land again.

We spend the remaining days going to the Dandeli forests and thereafter to Goa , where wilder shores beckon us . But the River Kali with her myriad moods remains fresh in our minds .

Skywatch Friday�Kudrevatti , Tamilnadu

The journey they say is the destination. This was a journey that started in down south Tirunelveli in a village called Kallidaikurichi one sunny morning. We crossed the river Tambiraparani to the neighbouring town, Ambasamudram and walked into a rather welcoming office of the Forest Department to get the necessary permits to enter the Kalakadu Mudanthurai Tiger Reserve. My journey was to take me down through the hot biodiversity reserve with endemic flora and fauna , the home of several rivers , rivulets and reservoirs. But the forests took me on a road not taken to the land where ferns grew in abundance.
We drove without a destination in mind and without an agenda as well. No tigers or leopards crossed our paths, nor were we looking for them. The trees cast long shadows, wrapping us in a green world. And then in a little clearing, I saw it . With the mountains of the Western Ghats bordering it, the little Manimuthar, that has its source in the hills flowed here and cascaded down as a waterfall. Tourists sing praises to Courtrallam Falls, but Manimuthar tumbled down as the lady in white and a dam greeted us on the way.
The mountains gave us company. A herd of spotted deer crossed our paths. The monkeys glared at us, a crested serpent eagle posed for us. The landscape kept changing with every turn on the road. Dense evergreen forests, open grasslands, little streams and dams followed us where ever we go. The skies were a distinct blue and the clouds came down to touch you. But it was not just the beauty of nature or the invisible presence of the wild that fascinated me ; it was the absolute silence that greeted me everywhere. There was no tourist or even a local around, but for a local tea shop near Manjolai tea estate .
We drove on without stopping and crossed tea plantations at Manjolai until another dam interrupted us � the Upper Kodaiyar Dam . The landscape changed again and we saw open grasslands , but the mountains were still with us. Sometimes road trips are just about aimless journeys moving from one scenic spot to another, lost in the lap of nature.
But finally we did pause in our journey. There was no milestone or a board that announced our destination. It was just the wind that swept across our face . There were no roads or houses huddled together. There were just open grasslands with the mountains circling us and just a viewing point in a corner. We climbed up the steps and waited for the mist to clear.

This was Kudrevatti - one of Tamil Nadu�s best secrets which would give a hill station a run for its tourist tag. The mountains just got closer as the entire canopy of the forests spread itself around me , almost embracing me in a carpet of green. But in the middle of the green cover was a sea of blue as we could see a couple of dams from the scenic point . While Manimuthar dam was clearly visible Karayar dam seemed to be in a veil of clouds. We stood there for what seemed like an eternity until the mist soon descended wrapping everything in its fold ensuring Kudrevatti remained a secret.

This story was published in my column Inside Story last week in The Hindu Metro Plus. To see more beautiful skies around the world, visit Skywatch

My favourite parks in Malaysia

There are times when you want to run away from all the noise and clutter and lose yourself in a world of lush greenery . I would rather see tall trees than high rise buildings .I hang out very often in parks and green spaces when I travel and I did the same in Malaysia. So here is my list of three favourite parks in Malaysia.


Pic courtesy : Diane Yuri, Creative Commons, Flickr.com

The Kuala Lumpur Bird Park
Now, imagine a tropical rain forest right in the heart of the city with colourful avian beings flying around in a world of their own. The Kuala Lumpur Bird Park is an absolute haven for bird lovers like me who can spend hours just watching them. Almost 3000 birds call this free flight walk in aviary their home as they spread their wings wide in this 20.9 acres of land.

The Kuala Lumpur Butterfly Garden
I was 21 when I visited this beautiful lush butterfly garden and I fell in love with it instantly. A little secret tucked away in the city, this is the largest ever butterfly garden in the world. More than 5000 colourful wisps of wings flutter around in this verdant landscape as you can watch them feed, mate and live in their own habitat.


Pic courtesy : Goflashpacker, Creative Commons, Flickr.com

Pulau Payar Marine Park, Langkawi
From green to blue, from Kuala Lumpur to Langkawi, we make the journey from land to sea. Malaysia am told is planning to have about 50 marine parks, but this is one of the tourist�s favourites. While some of the uninhabited islands offer opportunities for diving, the park centre at Pulau Payar gives you a detailed information on the island. And while you are here, do not miss the hiking trails and check out the colourful reefs.

So which is your favourite park ?

A wet and wild weekend in Valparai

The rain tumbles down , a gentle drizzle at first . It slowly gathers force, raising its tempo, drowning all sounds of nature . The green becomes greener but the sky wears a dark sheath of grey. The forests close in on us, the creepers magically entwining us into their world. I am warned that is going to be a wet and a wild weekend.

But there is something about the rains in a tropical evergreen forest that brings out the real wild person in you. We are heading to Valparai, a plantation town, a hill station, a bio diversity hotspot and a tropical rain forest � all rolled into one. Located in the Anaimalai Range of the Western Ghats, this is one of the most pristine spots in Tamil Nadu.

The rains become a part of the landscape as we stop for the first glimpse of the Anaimalais. The mountains are in your face and intimidating, but the scenery is breathtaking. Low hanging clouds merging with the mist, playing hide and seek with the mountains, roaring waterfalls, quiet lakes � there is no dearth of them. I count the many shades of blues and greens as the weather turns nippy. The road curves and the winding hair pen bends treat me to some of the most beautiful vistas of nature. There are about forty of them and the mist comes calling as we climb uphill .

The rains come down in full force, but sometimes it is the gentle drop that drips from the ferns and leaves that refreshes you. I feel a gamut of emotions inside me. Initially it is all about gay abandon, then the rains rejuvenate you as the forests come alive. Then as the earth gets wet and the skies are forever wrapped in dark clouds veiling the sun out of view, you long for some warmth . However the rain forest eventually wraps you into a world of magic, a world which is green, misty and wet. There are ferns and orchids everywhere with droplets of water dripping from them . The mist and the rains take turns to come calling. The waterfalls beckon. I learn to ignore the leeches and lose myself in the roaring cascades . And for a moment, I almost throw my umbrella and rain coats and rain poncho and let the rains drench me to the bone.

There are patches of tropical evergreen forests and then there are rolling tea and coffee estates .But it is in this rich bio diversity hotspot, that some of the endangered and endemic species live, fighting for survival. And I am hoping to spot a few of them � from the critically endangered primate lion tailed macaque to the nilgiri tahr, to the great hornbill among several others.

Our journey comes to a halt as we have company on the road. A herd of nilgiri tahr is effortlessly climbing uphill, only to lock horns and engage in a mock fight. The birds call as a lone nilgiri tahr comfortably sits high up in the grassy patch overlooking the entire valley.

We look for the endangered primates, lion tailed macaques and find them in their own world, blissfully unaware of the dangers that face them. Today there are barely few hundreds of them in the Anaimalais. Locals, NGOs and wildlife conservationists are striving to protect these species in this pristine environment. Some villagers learn to coexist with these primates as we see them in their own habitat, busy with their day.

The birds are next on our agenda. We spot woodpeckers, eagles, babblers, coucals, thrushes, mynahs but the moment that I have been waiting for is yet to arrive. We squint through the greenery and look for the Great Indian Hornbill . As we almost give hope, we see them hiding amidst the leaves. We wait patiently and saw the majestic colourful birds fly away , a spectacle to behold and an image that will never fade away from my eyes .

We head out in the night and catch a glimpse of the flying squirrels gliding gracefully from the trees . We look for frogs, civets, insects and several other nocturnal creatures and attempt to photograph a few through our macro lens.

Valparai is not just a story about a tourist destination . It is about a journey through the forests that opens our eyes to conservation , to the shrinking rain forests and to the endangered species. We go on a wilderness trail across lush forests, encountering wildlife, soaking in the waterfalls and getting drenched in the rains, learning a bit about wildlife photography understanding the bio diversity of the region from conservationists .

However it is an understatement to say Valparai is beautiful . The plantations and the forests present a fabric of green . The mists are everywhere ; the rivers and the waterfalls follow you wherever you go . And the legend goes, that an old man called Velu claims to have �Seen God� in the human form here. Velu still comes to the viewpoint at Seen God or Nalamudi Poonjolai everyday, hoping for a second darshan . You should probably believe him, because in that rich dense canopy, there is a possibility that God does exist somewhere .

Now, if this experience does not leave you Alive and Awesome, I cannot imagine what else can .  

To see more photographs of Valparai click here . If you would like to travel with me, visit my Facebook page or you can follow me on twitter

Single malt and more in Madras

A quick weekend to Madras aka Chennai and I was in for a surprise. Pat did I land there and I got a call from Vivanta by Taj - Connemara asking me if I was free to join them for lunch at the Chettinad restaurant Raintree for the 125th  anniversary of Glenfiddich in India. The Taj was creating the meal experience and the whole conversation over lunch veered around pairing Indian food with whisky.

Although I was the only vegetarian around, the food was spicy and went with the whole flavour. Distiller Ian Millar, the global ambassador from Glenfiddich was here with us, getting a taste of spicy Indian food and he was probably the only European I had met in recent times who seemed to be in love with it. We sampled a 12 year old and a 15 year old single malt as Millar cradled the glass in his hand, warming it, asking us to drop a few drops of water in it as we savoured it . And it was bliss indeed !

Birding in Hebbal Lake, Bangalore watching pelicans

I was in Hebbal Lake in Bangalore, watching pelicans with some friends. I shot a couple of videos when we saw these beautiful birds in the waters. A friend explains the different kinds of pelicans while you watch them flying

Birding in Hebbal�Pelicans in flight

Pelicans in Hebbal Lake, Bangalore

Cauvery Special�The beginning and the end of her journey

One of my dream journeys is to follow the River Cauvery along her course and visit some of the known and unknown towns where she flows and listen to their lores.  I have visited a few cities and villages but my favourites are Talacauvery, where the river begins her journey as a little spring and ends as a little stream at Poompuhar where she joins the sea . The origin is in Karnataka and her final destiny ends in Tamil Nadu. It was a misty day when I was in Coorg, but a very warm day in the Poompuhar coast. Personally, I feel that rivers are symbols of freedom as they follow their own course and no one really has any control over them, except maybe the weather Gods. However, some day I hope I will make the journey at one go � all the way from Talacauvery to Poompuhar.

Here are the stories on Talacauvery  and Poompuhar that was published in The Hindu, in my column, The Inside Story

Talacauvery

A visit to Coorg is never complete if one does not go to Bhagamandala and Talacauvery, the origin of the river Cauvery. We went to Bhagamandala first which is the confluence or  kudla or sangama of the three rivers, Cauvery and its tributaries  Kanika andSujyoti . Interestingly Sujyoti is largely mythical as its meant to be flowing underground and joining the main river as she spreads herself and flows along .

Bhagamandala comes from the name Sri Bhagandeshwara temple, which houses the deities Bhagandeshwara (Lord Shiva), Subramanya , Vishnu and Ganapathi . Known as Bhagundeshwara Kshetra .the temples are built in kerala style and each sculpture tells a different story. A customary dip in these waters is said to purge you from all negative influences. An inscription here talks about how Bhagamandala was captured by Tipu Sultan who renamed it as Afesalabad and it was retrieved by Doddaveeraja after a fierce battle which lasted for about a week.

We move  on to the Brahmagiri hills to Talacauvery where the river originates and flows down 800 kms down to Poompuhar in Tamil Nadu. .The weather changes as the sun retreats as the mist takes over.The entire mountains are enveloped .

 

An enclosure around the spring called Gundige is connected to a small pond .which flows underground and emerges after about a kilometer down the hill. There are shrines above the spring and temples dedicated to Agasthyeshwara and Ganesha. It is believed that the Saptha Rishis had performed a penance here to get immortality. The priest inform us that the Agni Kundas can be seen there.

A plethora of legends flow down the Cauvery, but the most interesting that we heard is the legend of the river itself. Cauvery prayed to Lord Vishnu that she should become the most sacred of rivers and Vishnu granted her the wish saying that the while Ganga originates from the Lord�s feet, Cauvery will be worn as a garland by the God. It is believed that Ganga flows underground and even cleanses herself in the Cauvery and remains here for a month .

Pilgrims flock to Talacauvery in mid October where the river  gives darshan to her devotees.The water from the spring overflows and it is called Tula Sankramana .It is believed to be the rebirth of the river itself and the priests tell us that Goddess Parvati comes down to earth on that day. The holy water is taken home by all pilgrims after a dip in the river .

We see a lot of trekkers climbing down the Brahmagiri Hills to see the panoramic view of  Karnataka and the coast as well. As we prayed to the river, the mist suddenly touched our cheeks and before we knew it, we were wrapped in it .We were lost to the world as a thin white layer took us in its fold and gently lulled us to sleep.

Poompuhar

It is a hot and a humid afternoon and I am hardly surprised with the weather . I have been driving down coastal Tamil Nadu over the last few days and the sun has been rather merciless, with an occasional breeze attempting to lower the temperatures. Fishing hamlets, forgotten ports, erstwhile colonies and temple towns fill my travel diary as I head towards a sea side town, that was believed to have been swallowed by a tsunami several centuries ago.

My destination is a port that finds mention in the ancient Tamil and Buddhist literature and in the works of international travelers and historians like Ptolemy and Pliny. Mystery shrouds this old forgotten port as it is surrounded by legends .Discovering its history is like putting together the pieces of a jig saw puzzle together .The clues are largely the hyperbolic descriptions of the town from ancient poems like Pattinappalai and epics like Silappadikaram , inscriptions from temples and from excavations held under water and on land.

I am referring to the port capital of the Cholas - Puhar or Kaveripoompattinam, known today as Poompuhar, associated largely with the reign of Karaikal Chola and which comes alive in the verses of Pattinappalai , a literary work of the Sangam Age. Images of huge ships docking in the sea bringing in merchandise from distant shores to mansions built by foreign merchants are painted vividly in this poem. The epic, Silappadikaram recreates the ancient town with its markets , mansions, gardens and palaces. The port was called Maruvurpakkam , inhabited by traders, fishermen and foreign merchants while Pattinapakkam , with its palaces and gardens was the home of the royalty.

And yet as you drive through the chaos and clutter of the new town Poompuhar, you can hardly see any trace of the ancient capital We cross the excavations of Pallaveshwaram, where we are told that the ruins of an old Buddhist monastery was said to have been unearthed. The Buddhist literary work, Manimekalai speaks of the Buddhist influence in the town, while records its destruction by a tsunami.

�There is nothing really here, can we go back ? � asks my hungry driver as I tell him to head towards the sea. There is one site that still remains till date . Puhar am told refers to the mouth of the river and the ancient town was apparently located at the estuary of the River Cauvery where it joins the Bay of Bengal. I walk in the heat to see the magical moment.

An old lighthouse watches over the sea . Running parallel to the sea and separated by a patch of black sands is the river Cauvery curving towards the sea . A small stream that gets narrower as it meanders its way to its destination. A couple of fishermen are washing their boats. The sands meanwhile dramatically changes colour from black to almost white as the waves of the sea welcomes the river into its folds . It is a surreal setting . The sea curves and the river arches and they embrace as the waters flow . A small temple overlooks the estuary. An old lady walks away, as a lone fisherman wades through the estuary and crosses over to the shore. � Super stills madam �he says and smiles at me as I photograph the confluence .

It is hard to imagine that the tame sea would have ruthlessly devoured a town centuries ago. It is even harder to imagine the busy port painted by the literary works with merchants, weavers, jewelers ,potters all hosting day and night markets lies somewhere in the ocean depths. As I leave, I take a last look at the river and sea merging quietly, wondering if they have written a watery epitaph for Puhar.