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Monday, August 30, 2010

Singapore in three days

Its tough to touch, feel and see any country in a few days , especially if you are a traveller like me. But if you are visiting Singapore as a tourist or on business and you have anything between a few hours to three days in hand, you can still get to experience the country based on your interests. There are no must sees - it just depends on what you want to see . 




For instance, while we were at Changi airport on transit, we decided to go over to the orchid garden and then an airport official recommended a visit to the butterfly park in Terminal 3.  A friend recommended that I go over to the Changi beach while the information desk asked me if I was interested in a free city tour . I find Changi one of the friendliest international airports and here, you can even get a foot massage for free or you could visit a spa after duty free shopping.


Even after my many visits to Singapore, I realize that I am yet to experience the country to the fullest. However there are certain places that I could recommend , including some of the tourist attractions. This is by no means an exhaustive list, but I hope it will give you an idea to plan an itinerary . While some trips are best covered by a tour operator ,especially when you are running short of time , the better way is to arm yourself with a map and a train ticket .  


The proverbial city tour
Now, this is not something that I would recommend, but it has its advantages if you are on transit and have more than six hours to kill at Changi. You could ask the Information Centre to help you register on the tour which is free. You may need to clear immigration though ! If you are however a  tourist, with more time on hand and you are wondering where to start ,then go on one of the hop on- hop off tours. In three hours , you would get an introduction to Singapore. Most of these tours cover a bit of colonial Singapore, show you some of the monuments, drive through some key areas and also stop over at a few attractions. You could probably jot down the places and areas that you may want to come back again in leisure.


When I first went to Singapore, I did take up the tour and I found the Singapore National Museum interesting Another attraction was the Tiger Beer Brewery . If the bus stops at the Singapore flier, take a tour or do come back here to see the entire landscape of Singapore. Another place to see the skyscape of Singapore is the skywalk at Marina bay sands and that would cost you a bit. 


Little India and Chinatown
Some more museums I would recommend - The Peranakan Museum and the Asian Civilisation Museum, which I missed and is recommended by my friend Vijay, who stays in Singapore.If you are not really into museums and are more into real people and local flavour , then do visit Chinatown and Little India. Most buses take you on a tour to these places . I would recommend a leisurely trip to both these locales..Little India is a microcosm of Madras , but served rather in a Singaporean fashion with a splash of colour and life. Mustafa, the 24 hours mall  is a good place for bargains, but shop only if you have to. 


Chinatown can be both colourful and quiet. The oldest Hindu temple in Singapore is located here, but Im more interested in the alternative medicine practised by the Chinese. Walk over to the one of the pharmacies - sometimes you may even find restaurants serving you food , recommended by a doctor, based on your yin and yang . 


But all around Singapore, you would find a kaleidescope of temples, monasteries, churches , mosques - all quaint and colourful. Some of them are rather old and they tell you more about the cultural mosaic of this country. 

Walking around Singapore
If you enjoy walking and absorbing the sights and sounds of Singapore, then these areas should not be given a miss - the entire Marina promenade, Suntec City styled according to Feng Shui , Merlion Park, Orchard Road for the malls and shopping and Singapore River  for its cruises and  adventure sports - journalist Shweta who was with me was hell bent on trying reverse bungee jumping among other sports  I would also recommend a cruise - there are cruises from a few hours to small islands and cruises that sail to  neighbouring countries. Take your pick 


If you prefer nature walks, then there are many reservoirs and parks around Singapore - I went to the MacRitchie reservoir with Vijay's family and the trails here are wonderful. While this is one of Singapore's oldest reservoirs, there are quite a few around today . 

Singapore Zoo and Botanical garden
Talking about nature, the zoos and the botanical garden should be on everyone's itinerary. The gardens are massive and a visit to the Orchid garden is a must. This is a great place for birding as well. The Singapore zoo is one of the best zoos around and  do not miss the night safari. You can visit both of them on your own, but they are by no means close to each other. So you would need ample time for both. Try breakfast with the orangutans in the zoo . If you are into birding like me - jurong bird park should be on your itinerary. This will easily take about half a day of your time. Sungei Buloh Nature Park and Ubin Island are on my list as well for birding during my next trip.

Night life 
Singapore has a vibrant night life. My favourite is Clarke quay and the nightlife around the river. Chijmes is another option. Holland village,Demsey hill and Orchard Road are also great places to hang out.Try the gin based Singapore sling if you fancy a cocktail.  If you like to experiment with food, besides idlis and dosas in Little India, visit the hawker centres. There are quite a few of them - Lau Pa Sat is recommended by my guide. 

Sentosa island
A trip to Singapore is incomplete if you do not visit the famous Sentosa Island - which has several attractions . You could even stay here. Sentosa can be approached by land or water, but everyone prefers the cable car. The attractions are innumerable - from laser shows to underwater world. Casinos are available here in hotels if you like to try your luck Now, even Universal has opened here . The beaches are vibrant and a first timer will need at least a day out here. 




These are just some of the landmarks and attractions in Singapore.. While there are several package tours from India, I would recommend that you just book your hotel and flight and plan the sightseeing there.If you need more help in planning your itinerary , please drop in a line here and I am happy to customise it for you

Sunday, August 29, 2010

I got mail , again !


I was travelling to Madras (Chennai) last week via the Shatabdi, when my blackberry beeped. There was a mail in my inbox from a journalist from Midday, Sowmya who happened to find backpacker , the blog interesting and wanted to know if the person behind the blog was interesting enough to be featured in her paper. I replied instantly with my number and we spoke for a while, interrupted by a series of network issues . I rattled off , talking about my dreams and passions when she asked me if I had any goals or missions in mind. I hadnt thought of travel in that sense- but yes, there were loads of things that I wanted to do and was hoping I could do..I shared with her the trails , Arun and I run as part of  travelwise  some of my ideas that were in cold storage for a while and lo, she published them..I saw the online version today , thanks to blogger and cousin Aarti and was humbled to find that I was featured along with the renowned writers like Rolf Potts. There were far more determined vagabonds than me and after reading the article, I realized that it is high time I make my dreams a reality . In fact, I am working on them as I post this . If you are in Bombay, you can read the article in today's Sunday Midday - page 28 , or you can click here and go to page 28 ..

And thanks for reading and following backpacker and helping me make my dreams come true..

Sunday snapshot - A swim in the Pacific

Thursday, August 26, 2010

Tranquebar beach - Skywatch Friday


Tranquebar or Tarangambadi as its called today was once a Danish colony , nestled in the Coromandel coast of India. Walking around the old fort, I could see the view of the beautiful beach from the windows. The fishermen had just finished their early morning catch and their boats bordered the shore..

To see more skies around the world click here

Monday, August 23, 2010

A photofeature on the Youth Olympic Games, Singapore

My tryst with Singapore has always been filled with tourist attractions. But this time, I was lured to Singapore by a sporting event . Sitting in the stadium and listening to the cheers that reverberated through the stands, it was amazing to experience the energy out here. The opening ceremony of the Youth Olympic Games that saw more than 200 countries participating was just about to begin. My goodie bag was filled with trinkets that added to the light and sound of the event .The performances were vibrant and the stadium cheered as the athletes marched on. The Olympics anthem was sung, as the torch was brought in on a float . Fireworks galore, the entire Marina Bay was bathed in lights and music.  











































Sunday, August 22, 2010

Celebrate Madras Day

The settlement called Madras is very young as it celebrates its 371st birthday today. This settlement slowly grew over the 300 odd years adding villages , older than itself to its boundaries, growing into the metropolis that we know today. Nestled in South India and often dubbed conservative by those who are yet to experience the multi dimension spirit of the city, the story of Madras , the settlement started with Fort St George. Probably it started even earlier , 371 years ago on this day when the Britishers leased a piece of fishing hamlet and converted into their southern headquarters. Ive dedicated an entire post last year to the birth of this city, but today, I would like to celebrate by speaking about the oldest surviving monument in the Fort complex - the St Mary's Church on Church Street.

Built in 1680 , this is where apparently Robert Clive got married. You can ask to see the marriage register at the Fort Museum. Clive's house , which was called Admirality House  today houses the office of the ASI, but coming back to the church - this is probably one of the oldest Protestant churches in Madras. Designed by a gunner, built through local subscriptions, there are several tombstones and memorials here - of missionaries, governors and former officials and their families

A statue of General Conway, known as the soldier's friend stands here , as he was known to improve conditions in the army.The organ , which is the fifth to be installed dates back to 1894 and is still played during service.The altar plate is said to donated by Elihu Yale, Governor of Fort St George and who later founded the Yale University in 1687 , but the most interesting aspect is a painting by an unknown painter. The painting is a replica of Raphael's Last Supper , which is now in the Vatican. The British apparently brought the painting from Pondicherry in 1761 . 

As the sun streams in from the garden, you sit here for a while and imagine the days of colonialism, the era of Black and White towns , of Armenians, French and British ruling over the country .


This post was written on behalf of AffordableCallingCards.net, which offers different long distance calling cards, such as calling cards to India 

Friday, August 20, 2010

Skywatch Friday - The skyscape of Singapore

Watch the skyscape of Singapore from their recent hotel, Marina Bay Sands, as you take a swim on the topmost floor. The pool alone is over 100 metres long and you can walk around the Skywalk, gazing at the skyline and the port.

To see more skies around the world, click here 

Thursday, August 19, 2010

Musings and conversations on Singapore

In the darkness, the waters looked deceptively calm. I leaned out of the window and saw the outlines of several boats floating down below.The lights slowly came into view . The entire island seemed fast asleep. The watch said 3 am , as my flight touched down on Changi airport in Singapore, half an hour early. I set my watch to 5.30 am and thought about my first trip to Singapore, way back in early 90s, when I was an awkward , excited teenager .

India  had not yet discovered mobile phones, malls and internet then . And I was yet to see any other city other than Chennai. Bangalore still was a pensioner's paradise then. My concept of the tallest building was the Utility Building in Bangalore . And the Singapore that I had heard of was the Singapore of the 70s as shown in the Rajini-kamal starrer , Ninaithalai Innikkum and in Priya which also had Rajinikanth in the lead .

But the Singapore that I saw in the 90s was more colourful and vibrant, celebrating the Chinese New Year . It was the shoppers paradise , either at the 24 by 7 Mustafa in Little India or at the Robinsons and Takashimaya in Orchard Road depending on your wallet's size. It was the country that got me to buy electronics - brought back big box like DVDs much to the delight of custom officials back home. And my holiday reached dizzying heights as I stayed in the 20th floor of the Pan Pacific hotel and later on in Marina Mandarin.

Slowly I discovered many facets of the island country as I made multiple visits here. It  is an international city , which wears its multi ethnicity on its sleeves. Futuristic and cosmopolitan, the country is home to Indians, Malays, Chinese and many others. My guide, Najeeb , a fourth generation Gujarati connects more with Singapore. "Theres nothing left for me in India, " she says as we have breakfast together , 30 mins later in the airport. Friends from India who have moved here as expatriates feel the country woos them and they get the best of both worlds. A real India which is hardly a few hours away and a little India, where you get the sights and smells along with local groceries . "You dont miss India here at all."

I was both excited and disappointed on seeing Little india during my first trip. Excited because you see a mini T Nagar here so far away from home and yet, disappointed because, you didnt come on a " phoren " trip all the way to see a replica of a Chennai suburb in Singapore..But Singapore goes beyond the idlis and the dosas , the temples and the movies,  the flower sellers and the astrologers and the rangolis and the bangles. Its where the east meets west. This time around, I see a Tamilian teaching Rangoli to European and Chinese kids in front of the Peranakan museum. The museum has an open house where the Ramayana is being staged - by the Chinese Opera among other groups.



The city is  a microcosm of various ethnic groups - like Chinatown for instance where you would find old chinese playing chinese checkers on the roads , hawkers selling bright red feng shui artefacts or doctors prescribing ancient herbal therapies . Yet, it presents itself as a homogeneous international city, with a cosmopolitan flavour." I dont feel Im from the PRC , I am more Singaporean than Chinese, " says one of the members of the STB.


It may be nothing unusual for Indians like us, who are used to the amalgam of cultures and civilisations, but for Singaporeans, it is their identity. It is probably why they have every community represented in a national event like the inaugural of the youth Olympic games. The merlions and the dragons are followed by Malay dancers, the Chinese and then the Indians shaking a leg to Bum Bum Bole . Now India is being represented by Bollywood than Kollywood. But Amitabh Bachchan still needs to be introduced as Aishwarya Rai's father in law. "I loved three idiots," says an Indonesian blogger, who was one of the media delegates . But I am deviating..

Singapore has indeed reinvented itself. " Thanks to the government," says a friend. But what about living in Singapore ?  I remember a guide telling me that the wait for a government house is long and its often given to couples. " Many couples marry or pretend to get married only to get a house..many times, they are divorced by the time you get the house and you just cant afford a private house here " she had told me then. I asked Najeeb and she shrugs . " Singaporeans encourage living with parents unlike western concept of independence, " she adds that the waiting period has now reduced. "

And your provident fund takes care of the mortage, where you put in your share and the company adds its share ." But the amount, my friend says takes care of the house only-so all your life, you are paying just for your home. "Even old people work here as they are discouraged against retirement And everything is regulated by the government- from the car you buy to the school your kid studies in and the best part is if you travel on the main roads in one of the peak hours you have to pay a penalty-so you need to plan your day accordingly.

It is a regulated life, alright, but the control - the rules and the laws have changed Singapore from a third world country to a developed country in just one generation. " Yes, Singapore is indeed man-made - with hardly any natural resources, it has become a world class city. "Its a fine city as the T shirts say. break any law and pay a hefty fine !



All these conversations are probably more towards living in Singapore.The expats Im told have it relatively easy .But what about the tourist or the business traveller ?  And what is Singapore ? A global city, a financial capital  ? A cosmopolitan hub luring the business traveller with a vibrant night life ? A family destination with several attractions ? A multi ethnic city with cultural fests ? A naturalist 's haven ? A sports destinaton with the launch of Formula races and Youth Olympic games ? The tourism board sells it as Yoursingapore, trying to personalise it...I am still trying to get under the skin of the country even after five trips..but what do you guys think ?

This post was written on behalf of AffordableCallingCards.net, which offers different long distance calling cards, such as India phone cards."

Wednesday, August 11, 2010

I got mail !


Last week, I was travelling between Chennai (madras) and Bangalore, fighting a sudden bout of viral which grounded me and my husband for a while and that is when the mail came by, adding a cheer. Backpacker , the blog has been selected by  Singapore Tourism to feature the country against the backdrop of the Youth Olympic Games. I was asked if I would like to go to Singapore and that a fellow sports journalist from India would also be there , along with other members from international media. This was definitely a great surprise and a wonderful opportunity and I really jumped at it. Ive been to Singapore many times before and have been sponsored by the STB about ten years ago, when I was working for CNBC . They had launched their campaign then and I had directed and scripted a few episodes of the travel show Way to Go on Singapore. That was of course a decade ago and it was my second trip to Singapore. Ive gone a couple of times again after that , my last trip being a couple of years ago with my parents. I wonder what is it that draws me to to this country This trip if of course very special, as Ive earned it , thanks to the blog.I leave tomorrow and will be back with more travel stories. Until then..



Tuesday, August 10, 2010

Birding in Malenadu - 2

It was an orchestra by nature. The crickets and the cicadas would start and reach a cresendo , when the drizzle turned into a downpour . The birds would then become silent and when the rains slowly became a drizzle, they would start chirping and singing, only to be overpowered by the chorus of the crickets and the cicadas again. The frogs would join in , as the pitter patter continued and listening to this orchestra, I lost a sense of time.I did manage to take a few more pictures of the birds, but there were many that missed the lens
A leaf bird was enjoying the powder puff 


A teal was busy calling while a bronze winged jacana was looking for his chicks

In a lake close by called Bishtama Kere, I found a father bronze winged jacana with his little chicks. The chicks walked away without heeding the parent's advice and for more than 20 minutes, the father was calling out to his chicks. We couldnt see the chicks for a while, so I wasnt sure if the jacana could either. After a while, the chicks landed and we were privy to the conversation between them as they nodded and bobbed their heads in a very rhythmic fashion while probably arguing between them. Later one of the chicks got under his father's belly and shoved his beak up there, asking him to pick it up. 
A family of night herons were probably breeding here as well..
A common kingfisher looks on 
An ashy prinia sits still